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We hear this question constantly. And the honest answer isn't a single number — it depends on your surface, your environment, and how much you care about catching problems early.

What we can tell you is this: the longer you wait, the harder the job gets. Algae and mold aren't just cosmetic. They eat into surfaces. And in Indiana's climate, they grow fast.

The General Rule by Surface

Why Indiana Is Different

Fort Wayne sits in a part of the country that's genuinely rough on home exteriors. High humidity summers. Freeze-thaw cycles in winter. Significant tree cover in most neighborhoods.

That combination accelerates two things:

• Gloeocapsa Magma algae — the stuff that makes your roof look like it has black streaks running down it. Thrives in Indiana humidity.
• Mold and mildew on siding — especially on north-facing walls and anywhere with shade. It builds up invisibly until it's obvious.

A home in Arizona might go 3+ years without needing a wash. The same home in Fort Wayne would look noticeably dirty after 18 months in most neighborhoods.

Signs You've Waited Too Long

If you're asking yourself "does my house need washing?" — look for these:

• Green or black streaking on your roof shingles
• Dark discoloration on the north or shaded side of the house
• Visible mildew or green tint on siding
• Driveway that looks gray-brown instead of its original color
• Deck boards that look dark or feel grimy underfoot
• Gutters with streaks running down the fascia

What About After Storms or Construction?

Indiana storms can leave debris, pollen, and dirt on your exterior regardless of your last wash date. If you had major storms this season, a quick assessment is worth it.

Same goes for new construction nearby. Construction dust and debris settle on everything — your roof, siding, and driveway. It's not always visible but it accelerates buildup and should be addressed.

Pressure Washing vs. Soft Washing — Does It Matter for Frequency?

Yes. Soft washing doesn't just clean the surface — it kills the algae and mold at the root with biodegradable solution. This means the clean lasts longer compared to just blasting it with high pressure water.

A proper soft wash on your house or roof will stay cleaner for longer than a pressure wash. So if you're getting your house washed regularly and it looks dirty again within 6 months, the method matters — not just the frequency.

When to Schedule — and Why Spring and Fall

Most of our Fort Wayne clients schedule in one of two windows:

• Spring (April–May): Clears all winter buildup. Gets the house looking sharp before summer. Best time to assess any winter damage.
• Fall (September–October): Clears summer algae and debris before winter. Prevents freeze-thaw damage from water trapped under dirty surfaces.

Both are valid. The worst thing you can do is skip both years in a row.

Our Honest Recommendation

If you're in Fort Wayne or Allen County:

• Get your house washed every year if you're in a treed or shaded neighborhood
• Every 18 months is fine if you're in open sun with good airflow
• Get your roof soft washed every 2 years minimum — never pressure washed
• Hit the driveway annually — it's usually the dirtiest surface and the most visible

And if you're not sure? Text us a photo. We'll tell you honestly whether it needs a wash or whether you can wait. No pressure, no upsell.

We pull into driveways every week in Fort Wayne and see the same thing — homeowners who assume those dark streaks running down their roof are just stains from trees or weather. A few have told us they tried pressure washing it off themselves. It came back in weeks.

There's a reason for that. And once you understand what's actually happening up there, the fix makes a lot more sense.

What Is Gloeocapsa Magma?

Gloeocapsa Magma is a type of cyanobacteria — essentially a colony of living organisms — that colonizes asphalt roof shingles. It thrives in warm, humid environments, which makes Indiana a perfect breeding ground.

The dark pigmentation you see isn't the algae itself. It's a protective sheath the algae secretes to shield itself from UV radiation. So by the time those streaks are visible from the street, the colony has been growing for months and is well-established.

It spreads via airborne spores. Once one roof in a neighborhood has it, spores drift to neighboring homes. That's why you'll often see entire streets with the same black stripe pattern.

Why It's a Real Problem — Not Just Cosmetic

Most homeowners think this is a curb appeal issue. It's actually a structural one.

• It feeds on limestone: Modern asphalt shingles use crushed limestone as a filler. Gloeocapsa Magma feeds directly on it, breaking down the shingle composition over time.
• It retains heat: Dark algae absorbs more solar heat, which can increase attic temperatures and push up energy costs.
• It shortens roof life: A 25-year shingle on a heavily algae-colonized roof can start failing significantly earlier.
• It voids some warranties: Some shingle manufacturers include algae damage exclusions. An untreated, visibly colonized roof may cost you on a warranty claim.

Why Pressure Washing Makes It Worse

This is the part that surprises people. Pressure washing your roof doesn't fix the algae problem — it accelerates damage in two ways:

• It strips granules: Those colored granules on your shingles are there to protect against UV. High pressure blasts them off, permanently reducing your roof's protection and lifespan.
• It doesn't kill the algae: You're removing the visible dark pigment but leaving the algae colony alive. It regrows from the remaining root system within weeks — often looking worse as the disrupted colony spreads.

What Soft Washing Actually Does

Soft washing uses water pressure roughly equivalent to a garden hose — the chemistry does the work, not the force. The solution we apply to your roof contains:

• Sodium hypochlorite (SH) — diluted to the appropriate concentration for roofing. Kills Gloeocapsa Magma, mold, mildew, and moss at the cellular level.
• A biodegradable surfactant — helps the solution cling to the shingle surface and penetrate the algae colony rather than running off immediately.

The algae is dead after treatment. The dark staining fades over a few rain cycles — usually within 30–60 days the roof looks noticeably lighter. On heavily colonized roofs, the difference is dramatic.

What About Moss?

Moss is a different organism but responds to the same treatment. The distinction is that moss has a root structure (rhizoids) that can physically lift shingles as it grows. Heavy moss growth can actually create gaps where water gets under shingles — a leak risk.

After soft washing, dead moss may take a few weeks to fully detach and wash away with rain. Don't try to scrape it off manually — that causes more granule damage than the moss itself.

Does This Come Back?

Yes — eventually. Spores are in the air and will recolonize over time. But a proper soft wash keeps most roofs clean for 2–3 years. Factors that shorten this:

• Heavy tree cover (shade + organic debris)
• North-facing roof slopes that don't dry out quickly
• Neighbors with heavy growth (spore source nearby)

We recommend most Fort Wayne homeowners get their roof soft washed every 2 years as part of routine home maintenance. It's significantly cheaper than waiting until the problem is severe.

How to Get a Quote

Text a photo of your roof to (260) 600-7732. Tell us your address. Alex will give you an honest same-day assessment — including whether it's actually algae, how bad the colonization is, and what it would cost to fix it. No hard sell. Just a straight answer.

Your driveway takes more abuse than any other surface on your property. Road salt in winter, pollen in spring, oil drips from vehicles, tire marks, algae — it all compounds. The timing of when you clean it matters more than most people realize.

Season by Season Breakdown

Why Spring Edges Out Fall

Both spring and fall are excellent windows. Here's why we recommend spring first when clients ask:

• Road salt damage is cumulative — the longer salt sits on and in your concrete, the more it degrades the surface. Washing it away in April stops the damage that started in December.
• You're setting up your home for summer — if you're planning to use the driveway for gatherings, parking guests, or just want things looking sharp, spring gets it done early.
• Sealing is easier after a spring wash — if you want to seal your concrete, spring gives you the longest window of warm weather to let it cure properly before temperature swings.

The Temperature Rule

Never pressure wash concrete when surface temps are at or below 40°F. Here's why it matters in practical terms for Indiana:

• Fort Wayne average low in March: 27°F. Average high: 47°F. That window is narrow.
• April average low: 36°F. Average high: 60°F. Safe for afternoon washes on most days.
• October average low: 40°F. Average high: 61°F. Still solid — especially in the first half of the month.

The safest rule: wash when temps will stay above 40°F for at least 24 hours after the job. That gives the concrete time to fully dry before any freeze risk.

Does Season Affect How Clean It Gets?

Not significantly — a good pressure washer with the right surface cleaner attachment will do a thorough job regardless of season (within the temp parameters above). What changes with season is what kind of buildup you're dealing with:

• Post-winter: Salt residue, sand, vehicle fluid drips, organic debris
• Post-summer: Oil stains, tire marks, algae, pollen film, general grime
• Post-fall: Leaf tannin stains (can be stubborn), wet organic matter, early algae

Should You Seal After Washing?

Concrete sealing is optional but extends the clean significantly and protects against future staining. If you're going to seal, always wash first — sealing over dirty concrete locks the grime in permanently.

The wash-to-seal sequence needs about 48–72 hours of dry weather between steps. Spring and early fall offer the best chance of hitting that window in Indiana.

How Often for Fort Wayne Driveways Specifically

Our honest recommendation for most driveways in Allen County: once a year minimum. Twice a year (spring and fall) if you want it consistently sharp or if you have heavy vehicle traffic, tree cover overhead, or a north-facing driveway that stays damp.

The driveway is the first thing people see. It's worth keeping clean.

How Often Should Fort Wayne Gutters Be Cleaned?

The standard recommendation is twice a year — once in late spring after seed and pollen season, and once in late fall after leaves have dropped. Fort Wayne's tree cover makes the fall cleaning especially critical.

If you have pine trees overhanging your roof, you may need three cleanings per year. Pine needles compact into a mat that's more effective at blocking drainage than most other debris.

What Happens If You Skip It

In order of severity:

• Fascia board rot: Water sitting against wood accelerates rot. Fascia replacement runs $500–$2,000 depending on how much is affected.
• Foundation water intrusion: Overflow that pools at the foundation can seep into your basement. Foundation waterproofing runs $3,000–$10,000+.
• Roof damage: Ice dams in winter form when blocked gutters prevent proper drainage. Backed-up ice under shingles causes significant damage.
• Landscape erosion: Concentrated overflow erodes gardens, mulch, and grading around the home.

Can You Clean Gutters Yourself?

Yes — if you're comfortable on a ladder, have the right equipment, and your home is one story or a manageable two-story pitch. For most homeowners, gutter cleaning is one of the more manageable DIY tasks.

Where it gets risky: steep roofs, two-story+ homes, older ladders, or trying to do it alone. Falls from ladders are one of the most common home improvement injuries. If there's any doubt, the cost to hire it out is low enough to be worth it.

Combining Gutter Cleaning With Other Services

At Lux Lavare, we often recommend combining gutter cleaning with a house wash or roof soft wash. The efficiency is real — we're already on-site, equipment is already set up, and roof washing will naturally clear debris toward the gutters anyway. Doing both at the same appointment saves you a separate visit fee.

Why the Method Matters More Than the Pressure

Most homeowners think pressure washing is pressure washing. Point the wand, pull the trigger, done. But your deck material, age, and current condition change everything about how it should be cleaned.

Wood decks are particularly vulnerable. High pressure doesn't just clean the surface — it blasts into the wood fibers, raising the grain and leaving a fuzzy, rough texture that actually traps more dirt going forward. It can also cause splintering, especially in older or weathered wood.

Composite decks are more forgiving, but manufacturers often specify maximum PSI in their care instructions — and exceeding it can void your warranty.

The Right PSI for Deck Cleaning

• Softwood (pine, cedar, redwood): 500–600 PSI max. These are soft species that damage easily.
• Hardwood (ipe, mahogany, teak): 800–1200 PSI is generally safe. Still keep the nozzle moving.
• Composite decking: Check manufacturer specs. Most allow up to 1500 PSI but recommend 1000 or less for routine cleaning.
• Painted or stained decks: Lower pressure (500–800 PSI) to avoid stripping the finish.

When Soft Washing Makes More Sense

If your primary problem is mold, mildew, algae, or general biological growth — not just physical dirt — soft washing is the better approach. The cleaning solution penetrates the wood and kills the growth at the source. High pressure alone just removes the visible staining while leaving the organism alive.

Signs you need soft washing on your deck:

• Green or black discoloration (algae or mold, not just dirt)
• Slippery surface when wet
• Dark staining that doesn't respond to a basic rinse
• Consistent moisture (shaded deck or near a pool)

The Deck Cleaning Sequence That Works

1. Clear furniture, plants, and anything loose
2. Apply cleaning solution (for biological growth) and let it dwell 5–10 minutes
3. Rinse with low pressure, working with the grain of the wood
4. Let dry completely — 48+ hours in Indiana weather
5. Sand lightly if grain is raised (this may happen even at proper pressure)
6. Apply stain or sealer if the wood needs it (highly recommended after cleaning)

What About Concrete or Stone Patios?

Concrete patios can handle significantly higher pressure — 2500–3000 PSI with a surface cleaner attachment is standard and effective. Pavers and natural stone sit in between: 1500–2000 PSI, being careful around jointing sand and mortar joints.

The surface cleaner attachment (a spinning bar inside a shroud) is the right tool for flat hard surfaces. It produces a consistent clean without the tiger-stripe pattern you get from a wand.

How We Handle Decks at Lux Lavare

We assess the deck material and condition before we touch anything. Wood species, age, current finish or stain, and the type of growth all factor into the approach. We'll never use the same settings on a cedar deck that we use on a driveway — and if a deck needs a professional sanding or re-stain recommendation after cleaning, we'll tell you honestly.

The Short Answer

A clean home exterior doesn't add square footage. It doesn't install new fixtures. But it does something arguably more important: it changes how buyers and appraisers feel about the property in the first 10 seconds.

Realtors consistently rank curb appeal improvements among the highest ROI upgrades before listing. And exterior cleaning is the simplest, cheapest version of that.

What Realtors Actually Say

We've talked to enough real estate agents in Fort Wayne to know this is consistent: a dirty exterior kills interest before buyers even walk in the door. A clean one creates a first impression that carries through the entire showing.

The National Association of Realtors has repeatedly cited exterior improvements — including cleaning — as among the highest ROI pre-listing investments. The numbers vary by market, but the direction is consistent: clean exteriors sell faster and at or above asking price more often than comparable homes with neglected exteriors.

The Specific Numbers

• Professional exterior wash cost in Fort Wayne: $200–$600 for a full house wash depending on size
• Estimated curb appeal value added: Realtors consistently cite $5,000–$15,000 in perceived value on homes in the $200k–$400k range
• ROI range: 10:1 to 25:1 on the cleaning cost alone

Beyond the Sale: Appraiser Perception

Appraisers are supposed to be objective. They are, mostly. But condition affects appraised value — and visible algae on the roof, stained driveway, and dingy siding are condition issues. A clean exterior signals maintenance. An appraisal that comes in higher eliminates the appraisal gap that kills so many deals.

What About Staying in the Home?

Not everyone is selling. And pressure washing still pays off if you're staying put — it protects the surface materials, prevents degradation, and keeps your largest asset in good shape.

Concrete driveways that are regularly cleaned and sealed last significantly longer than neglected ones. Algae on a roof costs you money in shingle degradation. Mold on siding can work into the substrate and cause rot. These aren't speculative — they're the predictable outcomes of deferred maintenance.

The Specific Areas That Matter Most to Buyers

1. The driveway — first thing seen from the street. Oil stains, dark concrete, and algae growth are immediate red flags.
2. The roof — black streaks signal algae and suggest deferred maintenance. Buyers and their inspectors notice.
3. The siding — mildew and green tinting on the north side reads as "this house wasn't taken care of."
4. The entry — the walkway, steps, and front door area get extreme scrutiny. Keep it spotless.

Timing — When to Schedule Before Listing

If you're listing your home, book the exterior wash 2–3 weeks before photos. This gives time for the surfaces to fully dry and any remaining staining to fade. Roofs especially — soft-washed algae doesn't disappear instantly. Rain cycles help clear the dead growth over a few weeks and the result looks better after.

Don't do it the day before photos. Do it 2–3 weeks out.

Why Indiana Winters Are Specifically Rough

Fort Wayne averages significant freeze-thaw cycles throughout winter — temperatures that oscillate above and below 32°F repeatedly. This is worse for home exteriors than a consistently cold climate, because the thaw-freeze cycle is what does the damage, not the cold alone.

Water expands 9% when it freezes. Water that gets into a surface crack, a gutter joint, or under a shingle in November becomes a much bigger problem by February.

The Fall Exterior Prep Checklist

1. Wash the Exterior Before Temperatures Drop

September and October are the ideal window. Cleaning your siding, roof, and surfaces before winter serves two purposes: it removes organic matter (algae, mold, debris) that would continue growing in freeze-thaw cycles, and it lets you see the actual condition of your exterior — cracks, damaged caulking, and problem areas are visible on a clean surface that aren't on a dirty one.

2. Clear All Gutters — Completely

This is non-negotiable for Indiana homes. Full gutters in winter create ice dams. An ice dam is a ridge of ice at the eave of the roof that prevents melt water from draining properly. That water then backs up under shingles and into your home. It's a major cause of interior water damage that's entirely preventable.

Clear gutters in late October after most leaves have fallen. Check them again in November if you have heavy tree cover.

3. Inspect and Treat Concrete

Check your driveway and walkways for cracks. Any crack that can hold water is a freeze-thaw problem waiting to happen. Crack filler from any hardware store handles small gaps. Larger cracks warrant a professional look.

If you haven't sealed your concrete recently, fall is the time. Sealing prevents water infiltration and makes spring cleaning significantly easier. The sealer needs temps above 50°F to cure, so don't wait past mid-October in Fort Wayne.

4. Check Caulking and Seals

Every penetration in your home's exterior — window frames, door frames, utility penetrations, where siding meets trim — should be sealed. Caulk degrades over time, especially in climates with temperature swings. Failed caulk is an entry point for water, which then freezes, which then expands the gap further.

Walk the perimeter of your home and look for caulk that's cracking, pulling away from the surface, or missing entirely. This is a cheap and fast DIY fix with significant protective value.

5. Trim Overhanging Branches

Any branch that hangs over your roof is a risk in Indiana winters. Ice accumulation on branches can cause them to snap and fall. Sustained weight from ice-covered branches against your roof causes real damage. Fall pruning is safer and easier than emergency removal after a storm.

6. Inspect Roof Flashing

Flashing is the metal or membrane that seals roof penetrations — chimneys, vents, skylights. It's one of the most common sources of leaks and often fails in winter when temperature swings cause metal to expand and contract repeatedly. Look for lifted edges, rust, or gaps. This is worth a professional inspection if you're not comfortable on a roof.

What Spring Looks Like When You Prep Right

Homes that go into winter clean, sealed, and in good repair come out of winter in dramatically better shape than those that don't. The spring wash is easier, less expensive, and reveals less damage. This isn't theory — we see it every year in Fort Wayne.

The homes that need the most work in April are almost always the ones that skipped the fall prep entirely.

The Fall Roof Cleaning Argument

We do a lot of roof washes in Fort Wayne. And if we had to pick one season to recommend to every homeowner, it's fall — specifically September through mid-October.

Here's why the timing matters more than most people realize.

What Summers Do to Fort Wayne Roofs

Indiana summers are humid. That humidity is exactly what Gloeocapsa Magma algae — the organism behind those black streaks — needs to thrive. Through June, July, and August, algae colonies that started in spring grow aggressively.

By September, a roof that looked okay in May may have visible streaking. And here's the critical part: algae that's actively growing on your shingles is also actively consuming the limestone filler in those shingles. Every week it continues, the shingle substrate degrades further.

Fall cleaning stops this before the damage compounds through winter.

The Freeze-Thaw Problem

Indiana winters include repeated freeze-thaw cycles. When algae colonies are present on shingles, they hold moisture. That moisture freezes and thaws repeatedly through the winter season.

Each freeze-thaw cycle causes micro-expansion in the shingle material. Over a single Indiana winter, this accelerates aging on a colonized roof significantly more than the same conditions on a clean roof.

A fall soft wash removes the algae and the moisture-holding debris before winter starts. The roof goes into the cold months clean and dry.

The Debris Factor

Leaves, pine needles, seed pods, and organic debris accumulate on roofs throughout fall in Fort Wayne. If you wash before this debris fully deposits (late September is ideal), you get the best of both — clearing summer algae without waiting for a full winter's worth of debris to build up.

If you wait until November, the gutters are packed, debris is wet and matted to the roof, and temperatures are flirting with the range where we can't safely apply cleaning solutions.

What If You Miss Fall?

You're not in crisis if you miss the fall window. The roof won't collapse. But you're letting algae sit through an Indiana winter, which we've established is harder on surfaces than people expect.

Spring cleaning is the next best option — it clears everything winter left behind and gets you ahead of the summer growing season. Just don't let two consecutive falls pass without a wash.

Why We Don't Wash in Winter

A few reasons:

• Safety: Wet, sloped roofs near or below freezing are genuinely dangerous to work on.
• Chemistry effectiveness: The cleaning solutions we use require a minimum temperature to activate and kill algae. Below 40°F, effectiveness drops significantly.
• Freeze risk: Water applied to a roof in freezing temps can create ice on the surface and in gutters, causing exactly the problems we're trying to prevent.

Combining Fall Roof and Gutter Service

We consistently recommend combining roof soft washing with gutter cleaning in the fall. The roof wash dislodges debris that flows toward the gutters — so cleaning the gutters after the roof wash is the logical sequence. One appointment, one mobilization fee, both done right.

If you're doing this every fall, your roof goes into every winter clean, your gutters drain properly, and your home exterior stays in the kind of condition that extends the life of every surface.

Why We're Writing This

We could write a post that just says "always hire a professional." It would be self-serving and not particularly useful. So here's the honest version — including when you genuinely don't need us.

When DIY Makes Sense

If all of the following are true, DIY pressure washing is a reasonable option:

• Single-story home or ground-level surfaces only
• The target surface is hard (concrete, brick, stone — not wood siding or shingles)
• You can rent or own a machine with adequate pressure (2000–3000 PSI for concrete)
• The problem is physical grime, not biological growth (no algae, mold, or mildew)
• You're not trying to clean a roof — ever

In these conditions, renting a pressure washer for a day and cleaning your driveway or concrete patio yourself is a legitimate choice. The equipment is available from most Fort Wayne hardware stores for $50–$80/day.

Where DIY Gets Expensive

Here's where we've seen homeowners create more work — and more cost — than the job started with:

Roofs

This is the highest-risk DIY mistake we see. Homeowners buy or rent a pressure washer, get on the roof, and blast the black streaks. The streaks lighten temporarily. The algae regrows within weeks because it was never killed. And the shingles have lost granules they'll never get back.

If we're getting calls from homeowners who say they "just cleaned the roof last year" and it looks worse than ever — this is usually the explanation.

Two-Story Siding

The ladder math gets dangerous fast. Pressure washing on a ladder requires two hands on the wand, which means you're bracing with your body against the kickback. Falls from ladders account for a significant number of serious home improvement injuries. The liability isn't worth it for siding that a professional can clean from the ground with the right setup.

Wood Surfaces

Wood siding, wood decks, and wood fences require specific pressure settings and technique. Too much pressure permanently raises the grain. Too much chemical concentration bleaches and damages the wood. Getting this wrong doesn't just produce a worse result — it requires costly repair or replacement.

The True DIY Cost

• Equipment rental: $50–$80/day
• Cleaning solution if needed: $20–$40
• Your time: 4–8 hours for a full house, depending on size
• Physical effort: Significant — this is hard work
• Risk of surface damage: Real, especially on incorrect surfaces

Professional house wash for a comparable home: $200–$500. Done in 2–4 hours. Right equipment. Right chemistry. No ladder risk. Guaranteed result.

When you run those numbers honestly, DIY only wins on cost if you already own the equipment and have the time. For most homeowners, the math doesn't favor DIY once all factors are included.

When You Should Absolutely Call a Professional

• Any roof cleaning — the method is the issue, not just the execution
• Algae, mold, or mildew anywhere — biological growth requires chemical treatment, not just pressure
• Two-story or higher siding — ladder safety
• Commercial properties — equipment requirements, liability, and surface complexity
• Pre-sale exterior cleaning — you want a professional result in photos
• Soft surfaces of any kind — wood, painted surfaces, stucco

Our Honest Recommendation

DIY your concrete driveway and flat patio if you want and have access to decent equipment. Hire out everything else. The surfaces where mistakes happen are expensive to fix, and the hourly cost of professional exterior cleaning is genuinely low for what you get.

We'll tell you the same thing in person if you call us. We don't upsell jobs you don't need.

Why December Is Still Worth Addressing

Ideally most of this happens in September and October. But if you're reading this in November or December, there are still items on this list you can address before temperatures make them impossible — and a few that are worth doing even in cold weather.

The Full Checklist

Roof

• ☐ Check for missing, cracked, or curling shingles from the ground (binoculars help)
• ☐ Look for black streaks or green moss patches — note them for spring soft wash
• ☐ Inspect flashing around chimney, vents, and skylights for gaps or rust
• ☐ Clear any visible debris accumulation from valley areas
• ☐ Check that all vents are clear and unobstructed

Gutters

• ☐ Clear all gutters after final leaf drop (late November in Fort Wayne)
• ☐ Check downspout extensions — they should direct water at least 4 feet from the foundation
• ☐ Look for sagging sections or separated joints
• ☐ Test drainage by running water through with a garden hose
• ☐ Check fascia boards behind gutters for rot or staining

Siding and Exterior Walls

• ☐ Walk the perimeter and note any visible cracks, holes, or damaged sections
• ☐ Check where siding meets trim, windows, and doors for gaps
• ☐ Look for green or dark staining (algae/mold — note for spring wash)
• ☐ Check that all exterior outlets and fixtures are sealed
• ☐ Look for any areas where water could pool against the wall

Caulking and Seals

• ☐ Check caulk around all windows — exterior side
• ☐ Check caulk around all exterior door frames
• ☐ Inspect utility penetrations (HVAC lines, plumbing vents, electrical)
• ☐ Replace any cracking, peeling, or missing caulk with exterior-grade product
• ☐ Check weatherstripping on all exterior doors

Concrete and Hardscaping

• ☐ Walk your driveway and walkways looking for cracks wider than a credit card
• ☐ Fill any cracks with appropriate concrete crack filler before freeze season
• ☐ Check that driveway grades correctly away from the garage and foundation
• ☐ Inspect retaining walls for leaning, cracking, or drainage issues
• ☐ Apply concrete sealer if not done in fall (needs 50°F+ to cure)

Foundation and Drainage

• ☐ Check that soil grades away from the foundation on all sides
• ☐ Look for any foundation cracks — document with photos
• ☐ Clear any window wells of debris
• ☐ Test sump pump if applicable — pour water into pit and confirm it activates
• ☐ Disconnect and drain garden hoses and store indoors
• ☐ Shut off and drain exterior hose bibs if not frost-proof

Deck, Patio, and Outdoor Structures

• ☐ Inspect deck boards for cracking, rot, or raised fasteners
• ☐ Check deck ledger board (where deck meets house) for moisture or rot
• ☐ Tighten any loose deck fasteners
• ☐ Cover or store outdoor furniture — uncovered furniture traps moisture and stains decks
• ☐ Check fence posts for rot at ground level — press hard; they should feel solid

Exterior Lighting and Fixtures

• ☐ Check all exterior lights are functional
• ☐ Replace any missing or cracked light fixture covers
• ☐ Check that exterior outlets are working and GFCI protected

The Items That Can Still Be Done in December

A few things from this list can and should be done even if winter has arrived:

• Gutter clearing — as long as it's not icy or frozen, this is still worth doing through December
• Caulking — there are cold-weather caulk products rated to 35°F. Address any open gaps ASAP
• Downspout extensions — quick fix, any temperature
• Hose bib shutoff — do this immediately if you haven't. A frozen pipe is a very bad January
• Sump pump test — do this before ground freezes completely

What Spring Looks Like When You Do This Right

Homes that go through this checklist every fall/early winter consistently have smaller repair lists in spring. The surfaces are in better condition, the problems are smaller when caught, and the exterior wash is easier and less expensive because you're cleaning maintenance-level buildup instead of years of neglect.

We see both ends of this every spring in Fort Wayne. The homes that were prepped are a half-day job. The ones that weren't get a full day and a list of follow-up repairs. There's a real cost difference.